Cosmetics

Phallus indusiatus, or bamboo mushroom, has been reported for its nutraceutical properties, while its cosmeceutical properties remain unclear. In this study, we conducted extractions of whole, fresh P. indusiatus using both aqueous and ethanolic methods. Among the extracts, ultrasonic-assisted extraction method with DI showed the highest antioxidant activity compared to the others. For cosmeceutical assessment, we evaluated the extracts’ inhibitory effects against ECM-degrading enzymes and found that they exhibited a modest inhibitory effect of approximately 50%. Remarkably, ultrasonic-assisted extraction with DI demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties. Additionally, pressure-assisted extraction with DI showed a potentially protective effect against H₂O₂-induced DNA damage. To investigate the anti-melanogenic effect on MNT-1 cells, we treated them with the extracts and observed a significant decrease in cellular tyrosinase activity under α-MSH stimulation. This resulted in a relative reduction in melanin content. Notably, autoclaving extraction exhibited a significantly greater anti-melanogenic effect than the other extracts at the lowest concentration tested. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated a reduction in NO production under LPS-induced inflammation. Hot water extraction with DI and ethanol exhibited a stronger anti-inflammatory effect compared to diclofenac, without any cytotoxicity. These findings highlight the hidden cosmeceutical properties of P. indusiatus and suggest its potential use as a bioactive ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Full article

Food technology, health, nutrition, dermatology, and aesthetics have focused on colorless carotenoids. Carotenoids are readily bioavailable and have demonstrated various health-promoting actions. This article reviews the recent literature concerning carotenoids with the aim to systematize the scattered knowledge on carotenoids and aesthetics. The applications of carotenoids in health-promoting and nutrient products and their potential health effects are discussed. The carotenoids, particularly phytoene and phytofluene, have the unique ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation. Their distinct structures and properties, oxidation sensitivity, stiffness, aggregation tendency, and even fluorescence in the case of phytofluene, contribute to their potential benefits. A diet rich in carotenoid-containing products can positively impact skin health, overall well-being, and the prevention of various diseases. Future studies should focus on generating more data about phytoene and phytofluene levels in the skin to accurately assess skin carotenoid status. This expanding area of research holds promise for the development of novel applications in the fields of health and cosmetics. Full article

Botulinum toxin use has become the most commonly performed aesthetic procedure among individuals of all age groups, encompassing both women and men. Randomized controlled trials (RCTs) provide the highest level of evidence and quality reporting of their abstracts plays a significant role for health professionals, influencing their decision-making in patient management. Therefore, our study aimed to assess the reporting quality of published RCT abstracts for botulinum toxin aesthetic use in the head area. The CONSORT-A checklist with 17 items was used to assess the quality of reporting. All available RCT abstracts (N = 191) found by searching the Medline database that were published up until June 2023 were included in this study. The average reporting rate was 52.9%. General items were inadequately reported (30.9%), with few abstracts describing the trial design. The methods section was better reported (62.0%), with interventions, objectives, and outcomes properly reported in over 97.5% abstracts. The results section (56.9%) demonstrated good reporting of randomized participant numbers but limited reporting of primary outcomes and harms. None of the abstracts reported funding sources or randomization information. To enhance the transparency and reliability of RCT results, abstracts should adhere more rigorously to the CONSORT-A guidelines. Improved reporting in abstracts can facilitate evidence-based decision-making in everyday practice of medical professionals in the field of aesthetic medicine. Full article

This paper reviews research on some cosmetic creams considered “distributed parameters systems” and on the experimental-computational mathematical models that have been determined for them. The determined models characterize the cosmetic creams in all stages of the manufacturing process, starting with the development of recipes, the description of raw materials, manufacturing technologies, and the determination of the physico-chemical and microbiological indicators that most strongly influence their quality. This approach suggests the possibility of performing optimization operations, specifically sensitivity analyses, which may lead to the identification of best quality indicators and to the amelioration of negative effects related to disturbance sizes (temperature, pressure, humidity etc.). Five emulsions with different compositions, prepared in vitro according to our own recipes, using raw materials and preparation methods approved for cosmetic products, were studied. Through specific physico-chemical and microbiological analyses, we obtained databases that were processed computationally. The resulting mathematical models, in the form of both graphs and equations, led to important conclusions regarding obtaining high quality in the studied creams and to the confirmation of the usefulness of applying the principles of Systems Theory to the study of cosmetic products. Full article

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory and pruritic skin disease with a worldwide progressive increase in its incidence. In this clinical study, we studied the effect of a cosmetic treatment composed of a cleanser, and a body and face cream, on subjects (babies, children, and adults) suffering from mild-to-moderate AD. The product effect on AD clinical signs was investigated by SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD) index, subjective evaluation, skin erythema index, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. The products were shown to be effective in improving the AD scoring by SCORAD in all the groups, and a trend towards the decrease of the erythema index and the TEWL in the adult population. An improvement in itching sensation, skin redness, and skin dryness scoring was also reported by the subjects. Results from this study demonstrate the efficacy of the tested products in decreasing the overall AD severity through 28 days of treatment. Overall, the first results occurred within 14 days of treatment. Full article

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of Sargassum fusiforme extract (SFE) on melanogenesis and its mechanism both in vitro and ex vivo. The melanogenic-inducing effect of SFE was evaluated using a melanin contents assay and a cellular tyrosinase activity assay. To investigate whether SFE could protect melanocytes against oxidative stress, hydrogen peroxidase was used. The molecular mechanism underlying the effect of SFE on melanogenesis was determined via Western blot analysis of tyrosinase, a microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and a phosphorylated cAMP response element-binding protein (p-CREB) expression. The degree of pigmentation in a 3D skin model was determined by measuring the L* values. Contents of melanin in ex vivo human hair follicles were evaluated via Fontana–Masson staining. SFE significantly increased melanin contents and cellular tyrosinase activity in human epidermal melanocytes. SFE also increased the phosphorylation of CREB and the protein levels of tyrosinase and MITF. Moreover, SFE attenuated oxidative stress-induced cytotoxicity and depigmentation. Finally, the melanogenesis promoting effect of SFE was confirmed in both a 3D skin model and ex vivo human hair follicles. These findings suggest that SFE can induce melanogenesis via the cAMP/PKA/CREB signaling pathway in human epidermal melanocytes through its hyperpigmentation activity. Full article

Background: The injection of dermal fillers for facial esthetics has become a very popular procedure. Although usually safe in the hands of the experienced user, filler injections may bear a risk of unwanted side effects. Material and Methods: This is a narrative review of dermal filler migration after facial injections. We performed research on the literature on Pubmed and Google Scholar. Inclusion criteria were observational studies, case reports, and clinical trials which investigated the association of facial filler injections to filler migration. Animal studies have not been considered. Intravascular injections were excluded. Results: We identified 28 reports that met the inclusion criteria. The age range of affected patients was 21 to 86 years (mean ± standard deviation: 47 ± 14.8 years). Women were 25 times more reported than males. Hyaluronic acid and polyalkylimide were the most commonly encountered filler substances. Injections into the nose, lips, nasolabial folds, and forehead (including glabella) are more often reported for filler migration than injections into the cheeks. Tear-trough correction bears a risk for orbital migration. The delay from injection to presentation of filler migration was highly variable. Very late filler migration was more commonly seen with permanent fillers than non-permanent products. Conclusions: Filler migration distant from the injection site can occur even several years after the primary treatment. All filler types can be involved. Permanent fillers bear a higher risk of very late filler migration. Migration of permanent fillers needs surgical treatment, while HA fillers respond to hyaluronidase injections. Detailed knowledge of facial anatomy, safer injection techniques, and filler qualities are preventive measures. Full article

Background/Aim: Rapid onset of facial ptosis can impact physical appearance and compromise the outcomes of facelift procedures. The level of vitamin D has a potential correlation with collagen formation and its deficiency with inflammatory processes that affect the breakdown of hyaluronic acid. This study aims to investigate the potential relationship between accentuated facial ptosis in women and low levels of vitamin D. Furthermore, it aims to explore preventive measures or strategies to slow down facial ptosis and enhance the longevity of facelift results. Materials and Methods: The study was focused on monitoring the vitamin D levels in women and men with advanced facial ptosis and comparing them with a control group. Results: Notably, a direct association between gender and serum vitamin D levels was observed, indicating less sustainable outcomes in women. Conclusions: Women face additional challenges in the aging process due to hormonal shifts after menopause or premenopausal, which are associated with osteoporosis and lower vitamin D levels. Full article

Nanogels are a prominent research topic in biomedical and drug delivery applications. The versatility of their chemistry allows them to be tailored both to carry and release a wide range of active molecules, and to target specific tissues or cell types. Within a vast field of possible chemical designs, nanogels based on hyaluronic acid seem particularly interesting from the standpoint of dermatological and cosmetic applications, due to the well-known involvement of hyaluronic acid in several fundamental processes related to skin health and ageing. In spite of this, relatively few studies about these nanocarriers and their potential skin-related benefits have appeared so far in the literature. With the aim to stimulate further interest in the topic, in this review, we provide information on hyaluronic acid-based nanogels, including their key physicochemical properties, their typical drug release behavior, and the main synthetic methodologies. The latter include: approaches based on spontaneous self-assembly of polymer molecules; approaches based on chemical cross-linking, where nanogel formation is promoted by covalent bonds between polymer chains; and hybrid approaches that leverage a combination of the above two mechanisms. We believe this body of information, which we collected by going through the relevant literature from the past 10–15 years, offers cosmetic formulators plenty of options to design innovative products. Full article

Currently, in addition to the use of olive oil in cosmetics, the use of olive-derived bioactives and their incorporation into cosmetics is a growing trend. The olive oil industry produces vast quantities of by-products, such as olive mill wastewater, olive pomace and leaves from which new ingredients may be obtained for cosmetic use. In this way, by-products are revalorized, which contributes to the implementation of a sustainable economy or upcycling. This review intends to provide a detailed overview of the different extraction techniques reported in order to obtain the bioactive compounds of cosmetic value that can be found in olive by-products: fatty acids, tocopherols, polyphenols, phytosterols and squalene. Different extraction techniques are presented, including some traditional techniques (solid–liquid extraction) and more novel or “greener” ones: ultrasound, microwave, supercritical extraction, pressurized fluids and deep eutectic solvents. Additionally, different applications of olive by-products in skin care products are explored: emollient, antioxidant, anti-age, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial, and the perspective of consumers is also considered since they increasingly demand products formulated with natural ingredients. Full article

Bioactive peptides have gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry due to their potential in enhancing skin health and beauty. These small protein fragments exhibit various biological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, making them ideal ingredients for cosmetic formulations. These bioactive peptides are classified into four categories: signal, carrier, neurotransmitter-inhibitory, and enzyme-inhibitory peptides. This review provides insight into applying bioactive peptides in cosmetics and their mechanisms of action (e.g., downregulating pro-inflammatory cytokines, radical scavenging, inhibiting collagen, tyrosinase, and elastase synthesis). The abundant natural origins (e.g., animals, plants, and marine sources) have been identified as primary sources for extractions of cosmetic peptides through various techniques (e.g., enzymatic hydrolysis, ultrafiltration, fermentation, and high-performance liquid chromatography). Furthermore, the safety and regulatory aspects of using peptides in cosmetics are examined, including potential allergic reactions and regulatory guidelines. Finally, the challenges of peptides in cosmetics are discussed, emphasizing the need for further research to fully harness their potential in enhancing skin health. Overall, this review provides a comprehensive understanding of the application of peptides in cosmetics, shedding light on their transformative role in developing innovative and effective skincare products. Full article

Dermal fillers have gained significant attention in the field of aesthetic medicine due to their ability to restore volume and correct facial wrinkles. Even though such formulations have similar compositions, they can have different microstructure and molecular characteristics, which in turn affect the biodegradation profile. This study presents the results of an investigation of the physicochemical characteristics of four dermal fillers from different manufacturers (Sculptra^®, Gana V^®, AestheFill^®, and Repart PLA^®). The molecular and supramolecular characteristics of polylactic acid (L/D isomer ratio, molecular weight, degree of crystallinity), the morphology and size of PLA microparticles were determined. Hydrolytic degradation studies in phosphate buffer revealed differences in the rate of molecular weight reduction in the polymer. The obtained data may be important for the analysis and interpretation of the results of biological studies and clinical outcomes of the PLA dermal fillers. Full article

In recent decades, there has been a growing demand for shampoos derived from botanical sources due to their avoidance of synthetic and highly allergenic chemicals used as bioactives and excipients. These hair care products are free from sulfates, parabens, silicones, synthetic fragrances, and artificial colours. Natural shampoos are sustainable, skin-friendly, and eco-friendly to the environment. Garcinia mangostana (Mangosteen) peel is usually discarded as agricultural waste. It consists of numerous bioactives which exhibit promising activities for hair care and scalp maintenance. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate a novel hair shampoo containing standardised mangosteen peel extract. The formulation of the mangosteen shampoo utilised botanical ingredients and naturally derived components. It underwent an evaluation to assess its physicochemical properties, including visual inspection, pH, surface tension, percentage solid content, wetting time, foam ability and stability, as well as dirt dispersion. These properties were then compared to those of two commercially available hair shampoos. Its antimicrobial activity towards Malassezia furfur ATCC 14521 and Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923 was also examined and compared with the commercial shampoo using the microbroth dilution method. Its antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity assay. It was noticed that all formulations (F1–F4) had acceptable physicochemical properties, and they fell within the standard range. F2 had the best antifungal activity (MIC 0.039 mg/mL, MFC 0.156 mg/mL), and moderate antibacterial (MIC 2.50 mg/mL, MBC 5.00 mg/mL) and antioxidant activities (IC₅₀ 21.9 ± 3.27 mg/mL; AEAC 26.3 ± 4.06 mg AA/100 g sample). A microscopic examination of hair strands after washing revealed the successful removal of artificial sebum, signifying a good detergency effect. The physical and chemical properties of the hair shampoo formula remained stable without phase separation. In conclusion, the formulated clean hair shampoo with standardised mangosteen peel extract has good cleansing properties, and it is effective in inhibiting dandruff-causing microbial and scavenging free radicals. Full article

With the increasing number of cosmetic consumers emphasizing value consumption and sustainability, upcycling has gained attention as a solution to agricultural by-products, which are the main culprits of environmental problems. In this study, we isolated citrulluside T with whitening activity from discarded Citrullus lanatus stems and investigated the anti-melanogenic effect of citrulluside T and the underlying mechanisms. We found that citrulluside T did not exhibit cytotoxicity up to a concentration of 90 μM and significantly reduced the melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells. In addition, citrulluside T inhibited the expression of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2, as well as melanin synthesis via cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA)/cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB)-mediated downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a key transcription factor in melanogenesis. Furthermore, we found that citrulluside T exerted its anti-melanogenic effect by downregulating the β-catenin protein and upregulating phosphorylated β-catenin. Finally, we confirmed that citrulluside T was safe for skin through skin irritation tests on 33 subjects, suggesting its applicability as a protective agent against hyperpigmentation for topical applications such as cosmetics and ointments. Full article

Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage. Full article

In this current review, research spanning the last decade (such as transcriptomic studies, phenotypic observations, and confirmed comorbidities) has been synthesized into an updated etiology of hair loss and applied to the new cosmeceutical paradigm of hair rejuvenation. The major etiological components in scalps with hair loss are denoted as the ‘big eight strikes’, which include the following: androgens, prostaglandins, overactive aerobic metabolism of glucose, bacterial or fungal over-colonization, inflammation, fibrosis, metabolism or circulation problems, and malnutrition. The relevance of the ‘big eight’ to nine categories of hair loss is explained. In cases of androgenetic alopecia or female pattern hair loss, both elevated DHT and increased frequency of androgen receptors lead to problems with the metabolism of glucose (sugar), redox imbalance, disruption to the electron transport chain, and PPAR-γ overactivity (the latter is unique to androgenetic alopecia, where the reverse occurs in other types of hair loss). These etiological factors and others from ‘the big eight’ are the focal point of our hypothetical narrative of the attenuative mechanisms of commercial cosmeceutical hair serums. We conclude that cosmeceuticals with the potential to improve all eight strikes (according to published in vitro or clinical data) utilize bioactive peptides and plant compounds that are either flavonoids (isoflavones, procyanidins, flavanols, and flavonols) or sterols/triterpenes. It is noteworthy that many therapeutic interventions are generic to the multiple types of hair loss. Lastly, suggestions are made on how scalp and hair health can be improved by following the cosmeceutical approach. Full article

Cosmetic procedures using fillers have gained importance over the last decades due to their ability to offer rejuvenation and beautification quickly with no (or minor) side effects. Hyaluronic acid (HA) gel is the most used filler in cosmetic dermatology; its physical and chemical properties vary according to the manufacturing process. The characteristics of the final product are crucial for its clinical indication. Specific physicochemical properties of HA gel are required to fill, volumize, sustain, and contour different anatomical areas and layers. Ideally, HA gels should have a consistency similar to that of the surrounding tissue to promote a natural feel, but, at the same time, they should be able to sustain their shape against constant physical strain caused by muscle contraction during mimic movements. Generally, softer gels are indicated to fill superficial layers, and are not usually meant to perform lifting or volumizing, for which stiffer gels are proposed. Therefore, combining gels with different characteristics is indicated for global facial treatment. The Brazilian market recently introduced a new Korean HA filler. Still, clinical evaluation of global facial treatment using these products is lacking in the literature. This study aims to describe clinical results, patient satisfaction, and side effects of facial treatment using these fillers. We analysed the clinical impact of global facial treatment in 35 patients performed by seven dermatologists. Patients of both sexes desiring beautification or rejuvenation were included, and all of them had indications for the filling procedure. Three Korean HA gels (e.p.t.q. S100, S300, and S500, Jetema ^®) with high HA concentrations and cohesiveness, varying only in their crosslinking degree, were used. The dermatologists chose the product for each procedure based on their rheological properties and clinical assessment. S100 gel was indicated for refinement, and S300 and S500 gels for structure and volume. The doctors evaluated the clinical outcomes of rejuvenation or beautification using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), and patient satisfaction using the Likert scale, 1, 3, and 6 months after the procedures. Patients treated included 4 males and 31 females with a mean age of 43.08 years. An average of 6.33 syringes was used. After 30 days, 80% of patients showed excellent or accentuated improvement, with 94.2% satisfaction. After 3 and 6 months, 80% of patients showed excellent or accentuated improvement, which increased their happiness (97%). Immediate common side effects occurred in 17 patients. One patient had a vascular occlusion, which was quickly reverted using hyaluronidase. Most patients had accentuated improvement and great satisfaction. This new cohesive, highly concentrated HA gel promoted a sustained global improvement and patient satisfaction with expected transitory side effects. Full article

A key factor in the prevention of hair loss is the provision of optimal conditions on the scalp. In this regard, reduction of oxidative stress on the scalp is one critical requirement to support the hair follicles to function optimally. Recently, a novel shampoo formulation technology containing anti-oxidants such as piroctone olamine has been demonstrated to improve hair retention based on micellar degradation and coacervation effects. Caffeine has also been shown to exhibit anti-oxidant activity including the ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. As with piroctone olamine, it is expected that follicular delivery of caffeine will enhance its anti-oxidant activity in a region that will be beneficial for hair retention. In this study, two shampoo formulations as well as a control formulation were applied to the calf area of n = 9 male participants. The technique of differential tape stripping was applied to obtain the caffeine penetrated to the stratum corneum and to the hair follicles. Isotope-dilution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was performed to demonstrate caffeine follicular delivery from the shampoo formulas. The results showed that the percentage of caffeine recovered in the hair follicles was 8–9% of the caffeine absorbed into the skin and matched an existing caffeine-based shampoo. In conclusion, a novel shampoo formulation technology has been developed that effectively delivers beneficial anti-oxidants to improve hair retention. This new shampoo is expected to be especially useful in the goal of retaining hair during aging. Full article

In recent years, the exploitation of bacteria for the production of carotenoids has become of great interest as a sustainable alternative to chemical synthesis, which is expensive and technically challenging. This study contributes to the repertoire of carotenogenic bacteria by reporting the isolation of an orange-pigmented bacterium from the gut of adult olive flies. The novel isolate, designated as M3d10, shared 100% identity with Brevundimonas aurantiaca strain CB-R 16S ribosomal RNA, and, through a preliminary characterization, its orange pigment was predicted to be a hydroxylated astaxanthin derivative. Full article